Malaysian Travelog - Part II

continued ...

"  and then i was rewarded with two days in the town of ubud, equally touristy but the yin to kuta's yang, filled with new agey expat types refashioning themselves as artists and yoga gurus, legitimizing it all by marrying in.  it's quite beautiful though, surrounded and interspersed by vivid green rice paddies with fluttering white scarecrow flags, bananas, palm trees, flowers everywhere, and atmospheric moss-covered stone hindu temples.  beauty seems to be really important to the balinese, as does tradition:  every morning each business, home and temple has little offerings of flower blossoms, rice and incense placed in tiny, hand woven palm baskets on the sidewalk outside.  each day they are refreshed.  i'm amazed at how much of the women's time seems to be taken up in this occupation; you see them sauntering down the sidewalks with baskets of the little things balanced on their heads, on the way to the temple and various other stops; you can watch them place their offerings, sprinkle them with water and kneel in prayer.  it seems to be equal parts a plea for luck and an act of devotion. 
  i got to see a couple of traditional balinese dances, too, which was probably the highlight thus far.  they seem to be real community affairs: there are about five venues that offer a performance each night.  the men play in the gamelan orchestra or chant, both really entrancing sounds if you've never heard them; no sheet music, no conductor, just perfect synchronicity.  the dancers are made up exotically and costumed elaborately, the storylines obscure but the artistry readily appreciable. 
  and i've eaten really, really well.  indonesian food is fantastic, i can't get enough tangy, pungent tempeh in rich, spicy curries; and the food in kuala lumpur is really the saving grace of an otherwise trying city.  it has substantial chinese and south indian populations, and the street vendors serve up things the likes of which you simply can't get or replicate very many places outside of their native countries.  for lunch, indian:  they put down a fresh banana leaf for a plate, and come around with little pots of various curries and condiments which you mix with rice and eat with your fingers.  a feast!  all for a little more than a dollar.  and for dinner, chinese:  i was just swallowing my last bite when the peach of a proprietress yanked away my plate and said "go! go! go! i want business, not sitting!" 
  so i'm going. tomorrow it's head for the hills. i'm sure i'll hit my stride soon, i have a lot of travel to look forward to and i'll have more (and better??)  stories to relate.  till next time, let me know how you are doing ...  "

Comments

[Tulips4me]

Thanks for sharing part 2. I hope there will be more.

[Stephanie]

That almost makes me want to go... or at least read the whole book when it comes out! :)